With every rattle of my suitcase wheels I fear I’m going to lose one of them. It’s the hottest time of day, when most people would have a siesta here. Sweat is running down my face as I’m dragging my suitcase uphill on the cobbled pavement, trying to find my accommodation for the next eight days. My taxi driver was clearly not up for the job, as he pointed at two yellow houses, said “It’s one of these” and sped off. That was down the hill, about a fifteen minute walk from here. Almost there now!
Not the best first impression of a place! I’ve arrived in my accommodation in Cala Galdana in Menorca and – after a cold shower and a gallon of water – I feel a lot less grumpy than I sounded in my introduction. Time to explore this popular destination in Menorca.
Cala Galdana is a beach resort in the south of Menorca, one of the four Balearic Islands of Spain. A long stretch of white sand curves around the large bay, along with a promenade behind it. The bay is flanked by steep limestone cliffs. The water is turquoise and shallow, which makes it perfect for families with young children.
Cala Galdana offers everything you could wish for if you’re after a week in the sun. There are a few beachside restaurants, small supermarkets, bars and shops with souvenirs and beach gear. At least you won’t be stuck if you’ve forgotten to pack your snorkel. Everything is in walking distance too, so it can’t be easier to get what you need.
Maybe I’m a difficult traveller, but I need a bit of adventure! I really like to explore and discover destinations through food, culture and nature. I can see how Cala Galdana is perfect for a lot of holidaymakers, but after one day I felt I needed to escape the comforts of Galdana.
Cami de Cavalls
The bay is surrounded by cliffs and pine forest. I noticed a trail on the westside of Cala Galdana, so decided a run would be a good idea. That’s how I found Cami de Cavalls, my getaway trail from Cala Galdana. It was still early in the morning, so I had the trail pretty much to myself, apart from the occasional runner or walker.
Cami de Cavalls is a bridle path that runs all around the island of Menorca. It’s an ancient trail that served military purposes at first, but was loved so much by locals, that it has been reopened to the public. The entire route is 185 kilometres long and is divided into 20 stages, each between five and 13 kilometres long. You can complete the trail in about a week, but most people take between 10 and 14 days, allowing rest days in between.
Cami de Cavalls takes you over gentle gravel paths and rock clusters past several points of interest. The viewpoints are never more than a five-minute walk away from the trail, so it’s always worth having a look. They take you to the cliff edge, where you can admire some beautiful views of the coastline and deep blue sea.
The path is a fairly easy walk, but the rock clusters make running this trail fun! The trail goes up and down, but it never gets steep. After about four kilometres I reach a wooden boardwalk that turns into steps. A few hundred steps take me down to Cala Macarella. This beach is more natural and wilder than Galdana’s bay.
There are a few pine trees on the beach, leaves of Neptune grass everywhere, and a clear blue sea perfect for snorkelling. There were even a few wild goats roaming around, eating leaves and drinking seawater! It’s not completely remote though. Cafeteria Susy has been serving visitors good food, drinks, cocktails and ice creams for more than 40 years. The restaurant is at the back of the beach and blends in quite well with the natural surroundings of Cala Macarella.
I clamber across the cliff to the west over some uneven steps that are carved out of the limestone. This trail takes you around the corner and down to a more hidden beach: Cala Macarelletta. Now this really feels like a hidden gem! This small cove is completely natural and you won’t find any facilities here.
Three other people have made their way down to this beach, but they won’t stay long. Now I have this whole beach to myself! This is pretty rare, as it does get busy here in summer. I visited a few hours before a summer storm hit the island, so that may be the reason for my luck. Anyway, perfect for a refreshing dip before I’m running back to Cala Galdana. Regretting I didn’t bring a snorkel, I decide that I need to go back here some other time this week.
Later that week I returned to Macarella and Macarelleta (which was packed!). I also walked further along to Cala en Turqueta, which is stunning. To the east of Cala Galdana you find more hidden bays that are worth exploring. I would love to walk the complete Cami de Cavalls one day!
Do you really need to escape Cala Galdana?
My first impression of Cala Galdana was a bit harsh. Maybe it had to do with the fact it was so busy and I felt I needed to see a more authentic Menorca. Either way, I’m happy I went out on foot to explore the coast line and escape the crowds.
It was lovely to come back to Cala Galdana after a long walk. It made me realise that Galdana is a perfect base to have a sunny holiday, as you have everything you need, with lots of other beaches to explore. It feels a bit like the famous seaside resorts on the Costa Brava, but it never gets very rowdy. It’s all very mellow and comfortable, which is ideal for families. Escaping is optional!